Parts

Film Canisters

The natural spawning site for many dendrobatids are water-filled bromeliad axils (leaf bases). This is true for captive animals too, but in many cases, frogs accept and even prefer plastic 35mm film cannisters. These can usually be obtained (free) from film processing outlets if you ask nicely (don't mention frogs unless you want a long conversation and/or funny looks!). Different species may prefer black or white (translucent) film containers, and some species like horizontal, sloped, vertical, water-filled or dry positionings, so you'll need to experiment or ask another breeder.

Heaters

See Vivaria.

Lighting Parts

In the wild Dart frogs receive their light from the sun, however in the vivaria this sun needs to be recreated as best we can for the frogs and plants situated in the vivaria. There are many different options you can use for lighting your vivaria. Below is a list of possible options open to hobbyists:

• Incandesant bulbs - on average 15 lumens of light per watt of electricity

• Halogen bulbs - on average 20 lumens of light per watt of electricity

• LED bulbs - on average 25 lumens of light per watt of electricity

• Mercury Vapour bulbs - on average 40 lumens of light per watt of electricity

• Compact Flouresant bulbs- on average 50 lumens of light per watt of electricity

• Flouresant Tubes - on average 80 lumens of light per watt of electricity

The most common type of lighting used on vivaria are flouresant tubes.

Flouresant Tubes and T numbers - what the?!

• T12 - 12/8th of and inch = 1.5" in diameter

• T8 - 8/8th of an inch = 1 " in diameter

• T5 - 5/8th of and inch in diameter

Please note: You can not use T rating tubes with different T rated starters, so bear this in mind.

T8 tubes - on average 80 lumens per watt

T5 tubes - on average 90 lumens per watt - Please note the reason these look much brighter thanks T8 lights is because they are higher powered lamps - thus they produces more light.

Below is a photo of a T8 lit vivaria:

And in comparison here is the same Vivaria lit with a T5 tube:

I highly recommend listening to AJC's podcast on this topic

Also See Vivaria.

Misting Systems

Misting systems are becoming more and more popular with hobbyists that have several vivarias. Misting systems consist of a pump, reservoir, misting heads and relevant connections. Many kits are available from shops online, the one featured here was created by one of Dendroworld's administrators - Darryl.

Petri dishes

Clear plastic Petri dishes (used in laboratories for growing bacteria) are ideal egg deposition sites which can be positioned under coconut "honeymoon huts" and replaced when eggs are laid. A number of members have found that ventilated Petri dishes often reduce the growth of mould. Ebay is a good source for both types of Petri dishes.

Pumps

Used to power misters and features with moving water, pumps can be submersible (inside the vivarium) or non-submersible (outside the vivarium). Misting systems require specialized (and relatively expensive) high pressure pumps). Pumps designed for aquarium use (power heads or canister filters) are suitable for moving water features. Pumps placed inside vivaria must be accessible for cleaning and maintenance.

Thermostats

If you use supplementary heating for vivaria, it is important to control the temperature with a reliable thermostat to avoid overheating. Temperatures approaching 30°C are dangerous for dart frogs. Submersible thermostatically-controlled aquarium heaters can be used in water features. Other thermostats are usually placed outside the vivarium with a sensor probe inside the viv.

A frequently used type thermometer is a digital thermometer. The one pictured below can record high and low temperatures which can be a very handy feature:

© Dendroworld.co.uk